Opel Omega B

ggg

Fizikalc
8. avg 2007
5.698
4
38
What's Bad
Rear-drive Omega model canned at the end of 2003.

Poor paint quality on some early cars.

Large number of quality problems and complaints, often over BMW powered 2.5 litre straight six diesel.

The police had great difficulty getting their kit into the limited dashboard and front-of-engine space. Started buying Volvo T5s instead.

Some 2.2 litre DI 16v models thought to use a lot of engine oil, but oil from the 16v heads takes a long time to drain down and dipstick can give a falsely low reading. But engine also seems to have a genuine oil consumption problem. Apparently, the bores were machined with too high a gloss. Running-in oil has been used to attempt a quick fix, has been known to cause other problems. Vauxhall/Opel will not accept liability because it would mean expensive repairs to most 2.0DI and 2.2DI Vauxhall/Opel models. Several pressure groups emerged to try to get Vauxhall/Opel to take responsibility: www.peachorlemon.co.uk

Serious reliability problems of Opel badged version (exactly the same as the Vauxhall) reported by ADAC (the German breakdown organisation) in its 2001 report.

Side bumpstrip trim on rear doors of pre-facelift cars can come into contact with partially opened front doors and become irreperably bent.

8th from Bottom of 100 models for reliability in Auto Express 2002 survey.

2001-2003 petrol and diesel models imroved to average breakdowns, problems and faults in 2003 Which survey. 1995-2000 petrol and diesel models had highest number of breakdowns, problems and faults in 2003 Which survey. Only 90% of cars up to 2 years old breakdown-free over previous 12 months in 2004 Which? survey. Spring failures now increasing on models built in 1997.



What to Watch Out For
Electrical and electronic problems (check everything works, including computer and especially ABS warning light).

Electrical/electronic problems can develop between the shift lever of automatics and the servo valve box that changes the gears.

Check the a/c, heating and ventilation system on all settings because broken flap controls are common and very expensive to repair due to complex dismantling involved.

Ignition ignitor coils vulnerable to water ingress and condensation.

BMW diesel must have had 4,500-5,000 mile oil changes (easy for busy company drivers to forget).

Timing belt and tensioner changes re-scheduled from 80,000 miles to 40,000 miles on engines which have them (all apart from 2.2 litre diesel and BMW 2.5 diesel). Timing belts on 4 cylinder 16v engines also drive the water pump which can shed its impeller blades and seize, throwing off the belt, so best to change water pump too. Tensioner bolt which passes through oil pump also prone to fracture, leaving belt untensioned and apt to fly off. Timing belts and all tensioners need replacing on 4 and 6 cylinder engines every 40,000 miles or 4 years whichever comes first.

Idle air control valve problem that affects 2.0 16v Cavaliers and Vectras also affects Omegas with the same engine.

Reports of injector seal failure in later 2.2 16v diesels leading to fuel oil leaking into sump oil and also causing poor starting. Ignition control unit of 2.2 petrol engine is prone to burning out. Poor starting and cutting out after starting of 2.2DI 16v caused by airleaks through fuel injector seals.

Excess wear on inside edge of front tyres usually due to worn front suspension wishbone bushes.

Pre 2000 model MV6's have attractive twin spoke Irmscher 17 inch alloy wheels which don't survive potholes. If possible make sure they run true by seeing them spun on a balance machine. Replacements cost £230 each. Post 2000 MV6 wheels cost half this, take the same size tyres (235 45's) and are much stronger.

Stalling problem on 2.0 16v autos can be cured by a modification to the engine crankcase breather system, an oil separator being included in the breather pipe to the cam box cover.

If idle speed of 2.0 petrol engine is 1200 - 2000 rpm the problem is the idle adjustor control valve (Air Intake Control Valve). Needs cleaning with fuel system cleaner but if that doesn't work it needs replacing at £113 + VAT and modifying by fitting an oil separator. Tends to happen at 60-70k miles.

Further tips from Andy of digital supplies and solutions:-

"Cam Covers:- The earlier V6's had alloy cam covers - the later 2.5&3.0
(&2.6/3.2's) had a black 'plastic' cover. Doesn't matter which type - they all leak eventually - bad if leaking onto exhaust heat shield or into spark plug recesses., various problems emanate - oil smoking when hot, ignition problems.
Key Fobs:- Twin button types (pre1999type 'domed', and post 1999 'rectangular' protusion) = probably used on a no. of VX's, both types suffer fracture of one of the battery post legs (the one in the corner). Bugger to
resolder but can be done. Symptons - you'd think the battery was dead - but it
isn't.

Power Sounder (next to Wiper mechanism / under scuttle plate:- Most/all? fiitted with a GM unit (pcb and batteries in a 'potting' compound) - it's 'naff'. The water drain conveniently located directly over the rear of the unit and the connector. The potting seal 'cracks' over period of time, and does an excellent job of retaining ingressed water. Remove and silicone it before it goes into 'when i feel like it - I'm gonna go off - day or night' mode. Fit a cut up coke bottle bottom over top of unit as a water deflector. Other models fitted with a Bosch unit - fails as well due to overheating batteries causing track & solder pad failure - can at least be repaired - will last forever if batteries raised away from pcb & airvents
drilled (fit the coke bottle)."

If a door lock jams locked, try this: Remove the drivers door lock button ( it pushes upwards), remove the screws from the door handle, then gently prise the top of the door inside panel away from the door, just enough to get your hand in and fiddle about with the connection that operates the door handle, push it up, pull it down, several times, and the door should open. Then completely remove the door panel and spray a moisture dispersant such as WD 40 onto all the moving parts. Wedge yourself in the driver's seat and with the engine running try to push the brake pedal to the floor. If you can, this indicates a serious and expensive ABS pump problem.
Recalls
1995: static sparking during refuelling. 1995 (16v: VIN R 1000001 to S1155206): fuel feed pipe may chafe. Reposition and clamp into place. 1999: possibility of failure of plastic cambelt idler pulley GF50 on 4 -cylinder 16v engines 1994-98, which can snap cambelt. Changed as an 'in service mod' when cambelts are changed at 35,000-40,000 mile intervals. (Vauxhall Recall Helpline: 01189 458500 or 01582 427200) General problem of ignition steering wheel lock failure, usually replaced FOC. June 2000 recall of V6 models due to crankshaft fault. 2001: TSB about voltage spikes from the alternator damaging the camshaft sensor. This is prevented by unpicking the wiring loom and re-routing the cam and crankshaft sensor cables together around the front of the airbox, keeping them away from the alternator.
 

Narodnjak

Majstr
20. jul 2007
10.358
307
83
39
Ljubljana
Super motor, ga mel v omegi, zdej ga mam tud v Vectri.

Motor brez jermena (je ketna).

Največji problem DTI motorjev v teh letnikih... bosch pumpa, strošek nekje 400eur pa kakšne gumice povratnega voda nafte (par eur).
 

cat

Fizikalc
3. sep 2007
915
81
28
V moji gari bo čez kak mesec na prvem mestu števca kilometrov štirka. Izredni stroški glede na prevožene kilometre limitirajo tam proti ničli.
 

cat

Fizikalc
3. sep 2007
915
81
28
O peesda, pozabil sem da menjava zavornih ploščic, olja, filtrov in dolivanje tekočine za stekla tudi spada med izredne stroške. Imaš prav... pa da ne pozabim še na izredne stroške, ki udarijo po denarnici vsakič ko grem tankat...
 

Infernus

Fizikalc
8. jun 2008
2.301
6
38
Avspuh, amortizerji .. niso dolivanje vode. Zame je to izredni strošek...
smile-1.gif
 

bero1

Majstr
2. sep 2007
2.915
115
63
mb+ -20km
Doma imamo tak delovni avto,s tem,da je motor 2.0 DTI in pa letnik 99.V 17 mesecih smo z njim naredili 95000 km.Pri teh kilometrih smo zamenjali
enkrat komplet diske s ploščicami vred,1 končnik in pa seveda redni servisi na 15000 km.Redni servis te pride pri popoldancu cca 100 eur z materiaolm vred(olje aral 10-40,vsi filtri,ena ura dela).Sedaj je na števcu 255000 km,olja porabi pol litra na menjavo.
Lp.
 
Nazadnje urejeno:

cat

Fizikalc
3. sep 2007
915
81
28
OK, najdi mi avto pri 400 kkm z originalnim auspuhom in solidno delujočimi amortizerji. Dam takoj za pivo ali pa dva.
 

PIC

Fizikalc
17. avg 2007
2.466
2
38
Gledam pa tudi modele pod 2000, izključno motor 2.0 s 85 kW, ker pravijo, da je bulletproof. Avti so pod jurja.

Če ni v razpadajočem stanju, je to zakon nakup
smile-1.gif
.

LP,
PIC
 

Infernus

Fizikalc
8. jun 2008
2.301
6
38
Citat:
Uporabnik cat pravi:
OK, najdi mi avto pri 400 kkm z originalnim auspuhom in solidno delujočimi amortizerji. Dam takoj za pivo ali pa dva.

Ti pišeš da ni stroškov, ne jaz...
 

SoulMan

Majstr
9. sep 2007
3.264
152
63
Celje
Citat:
Uporabnik Infernus pravi:
Citat:
Uporabnik cat pravi:
OK, najdi mi avto pri 400 kkm z originalnim auspuhom in solidno delujočimi amortizerji. Dam takoj za pivo ali pa dva.

Ti pišeš da ni stroškov, ne jaz...

Potrebno je razlikovat med "stroški" in "izrednimi stroški". In pri avtomobilu s takšno kilometrino so omenjene stvari prav gotovo redni strošek.
 
Nazadnje urejeno:

Infernus

Fizikalc
8. jun 2008
2.301
6
38
Potem si pa nekateri redni strošek razlagamo drugače... Olje, filtri, svečke, jermeni.. redni strošek.
Ostalo izredni strošek je pa potrošni material. Vendar jaz to raje imenujem izredni strošek, ker meni je pomembno če avspuh prvič zamenjam pri 60k km ali pri 300kkm. In ja, so take razlike med proizvajalci. Velja tudi za ostale dele avtomobila...
 

Hanzi

Guru
27. jul 2007
48.076
6.923
113
pri taščici
res je samo pri 400kkm je že ogromno stvari "redni" strošek.
mogoče kakšni zaribani ležaji ojnice in podobnih zadev ne moreš šteti pod redne stroške. bremze, sklopke izpuh pa res niso izredni strošek.

če poznaš kak avto pri 400 kkm brez izrednih stroškov po tvoji definiciji ga kar napiši....
 

cat

Fizikalc
3. sep 2007
915
81
28
Izpušni sistem od katalizatorja naprej zamenjan pred cca 100 kkm, pred ~50 tudi amortizerji. Oboje je bilo še original. Sklopka je prva, zamenjal sem tudi LMM, vodno črpalko in par gumijastih cevk. Ker si me že skoraj prisilil v računanje sem prišel do cifre 3€ na 1000 prevoženih kilometrov. Se ti to v primerjavi z vsem ostalim zdi veliko ?
 

brgo

Fizikalc
14. avg 2007
5.783
0
36
Milky way
Eh, itak da imaš "okvare", ki pač nastanejo z obrabo. Kaj se sekiraš za mnenja tistih, ki še do 100kkm nikdar ne pridejo in se jim zdi avto takrat že znucan. Sam sicer menjam avto ko me začne s takšnimi "rednimi" servisi koštat mesečno ravno za obrok kredita za novega ali pa če gre preveč časa. Potem si namislim nov avto.
 

Infernus

Fizikalc
8. jun 2008
2.301
6
38
@cat: no vidiš, pa je le malo več kot si prvotno napisal
smile-1.gif

@brgo: meni se zdi avto znucan takrat, ko začne počasi vse skupaj ckrovati kar postopoma. In to je lahko pri 50kkm ali pa pri 400kkm. Če imaš fiata veš da boš do 400k km zamenjal tri, če imaš pravega japončka boš pri 400kkm komaj prvič zamenjal avspuh. (malo pretiravanja, ampak grobo rečeno.. jebiga
smile-1.gif
)
 

brgo

Fizikalc
14. avg 2007
5.783
0
36
Milky way
Pri normalni vožnji in vzdrževanju vsi avti vzdržijo veliko, to sploh ni problem. Sem prepričan, da ne poznaš veliko avtomobilov, ki so zaradi kilometrine spustili dušo. Bolj je problem ekonomska upravičenost vzdrževanja. Tudi način vožnje vpliva na morebitne stroške. Večji avtomobili, ki se načeloma več vozijo na daljše relacije, veljajo za bolj vzdržljive. Da so mali avtomobili podvrženi 10x večjemu stresu po v mestni gneči pa nihče ne upošteva... Zanimivo je, da v redkih primerih, ko taki mali avti klepljejo avtoceste kilometre, ravno tako zvozijo ogromne kilometrine brez težav.